Is Napa Valley Changing?

Observations from a Longtime Visitor (and Wine Club Member)

Another Napa Valley trip has come and gone entirely too quickly. As we think about the inevitable return to the hustle and bustle of chilly Chicago, we are happily recalling all of the wonderful things we experienced this visit. Fortunately, we arrived during one of the unseasonable warm spells and were able to soak up 70+ degree temperatures and sunshine, when we usually brace for February rain. We also enjoyed some best-ever meals and had the pleasure of trying many new-to-us wines and wineries. Mixed in with all of this emotion is a tinge of a new feeling as longtime visitors: disappointment. Not in the wine, not in the serene surroundings, but in the way some wineries seem to be evolving.

My husband and I began taking quarterly trips to Napa Valley in early 2009, which was in the depth of America’s economic crisis. As newish visitors, we were floored by the terrific service and wine we had at each turn – especially since we made our first serious visit in February – a typically slow point in the year, characterized by empty tasting rooms, “bad” weather, and, at that point in our country’s history, a “we will do anything to gain new wine club members” mentality. This escape from the doldrums of our hectic, big city routine is what drew us back season after season. We got to know wine educators who would remember to ask about our jobs and families and highlight wines added to the list since our last vacation. During slower winter months, some hosts would sneak us into a cave or barrel room to give us a taste of something special. And, generally speaking, we were presented with a tasting menu that allowed for a representative sampling of all available wines. (Depending on the winery, maybe two menus.) As a result of this impeccable attention and quality wine, we joined a handful of clubs that have ranged from three to 10 in quantity at any given time. While some have maintained a consistent approach with their club members over the span of our tenure, others have taken an unfortunate nosedive. From what we can deduce over these four years, the economy must be on an upswing. We also know that the 2011 vintage was one of the most challenging, leaving wineries and tasting rooms with a limited supply to sell and taste. Both of these factors, coupled with the freakishly warm, Valentine’s Day weekend crowd, contributed to what seemed like a very different experience this time around.

Here are just a few of the things we experienced:

• At a big winery we “joined” early in their Napa Valley premiere, we became near immediate club members, which opened the door to some of the best perks we can mention. Each visit, we were offered exclusive, on-the-hush barrel tastings of wine we were then able to purchase. We braved Midwest blizzards to make it out for fabulous release parties. We even brought six other family members to a tasting, all of whom joined the club. And, we always padded our order with extra bottles after having the chance to taste them. This time around, we were presented with the same list given to first-time visitors and told that all of the exclusive wines we used to try (and buy) are now reserved for a newly-created, $4,000/year commitment list.
• Two wineries actually seem to have forgotten we exist. After signing up for both clubs, one stopped sending to us after a shipment or two. We learned this visit that they transferred to a new billing system and somehow we didn’t migrate over. The second winery actually did this twice and we finally had to walk away.
• Lastly, at one of the wineries that put Napa on the map, we were quickly guided through a library tasting and told that we could sit and enjoy the wines (by our robotic host) but that, “we have to be out of the room in 15 minutes.”

As I noted earlier, these are mere observations and we still had an amazing trip. What I haven’t mentioned are the countless others who do go the extra mile and offer high-quality wines and experiences. I dedicate the rest of my blog to that… Being the Napa Valley and wine enthusiast that I am, it’s just a trend I do not want to see continue or expand.

If I may, as a proponent of wine clubs, I would just like to offer my candid tips for the suggestion box. Full disclosure, I have no idea how difficult it is to manage a winery or club, nor the rationale to know why big changes like those mentioned above take place.

Suggestions:

• For goodness sake, if we commit to joining your wine club, send us the wine! As a business person myself, it troubles me to think about how many customers fall off lists due to poor record-keeping or errors.
• If at all possible, try not to launch a complete overhaul of your club or tasting experience to make everyday wine drinkers feel like they are no longer elite enough to buy or visit.
• For many of us, a visit to Napa Valley is a very special (and expensive) occasion. It just doesn’t feel good to be rushed or treated so impersonally. A wine host or educator is essentially the face of a winery and can make or break guests’ opinions. Those who make a point to engage us in conversation, remember special details or offer a little something extra are the ones who motivate us to return and join a wine club.